Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1 Gets a Grip

What do you do when your compact camera comes without a grop?  You get a grip!  This grip makes the camera much nicer to handle and much less slippery

This is the grip before installation.

Comparison of my medium format camera to the Lumix: 3 pounds vs a few ounces

Hermes 3000.1 taken with the LF1.  Did my Classic 12 or this one start my obsession with typewriters?

Inspired Eye article that is the best review of all the reviews about the Panasonic Lumix DMC-LF1.

I use my Bronica more than I do my 35mm cameras for most of my shooting.  I chose it because it was handier to grab than any of my 35mm cameras.  Unless I go to an air show or event where I may want a long telelphoto lens I generally grab the Bronica before the 35mm cameras.  I don't shoot any of them nearly as often as I did when I lived in Virginia. 

A New Camera

One item that helped me choose, Leica lens.

My 3.2Mp camera is jsut not as sharp as the LF1

Advantage is the eye level view finder.  I will forego a better camera when it does not have a view finder.  Why manufactures are too cheap to put a view finder on all their cameras, especially the higer priced ones is asinine. Disadvantage is the dumb lay-put of the power switch and shutter release switch.  Same on the Leica-C. The back is not scratched; it is reflecting the muslin under the camera.

The control ring is nice and I've found I can reassign it to what I like or use as a stepped zoom to fixed focal lengths.  Some reviews state it cannot be reassigned.  Maybe the reviewers did not give it a try.

Unlike the Leica-C the LF1 has anchors for a neck strap on both sides.  Even though this is a tiny camera I like using a neck strap. 

The camera is not much larger than the Jackalope sticker.

Montana Luxe taken with the Lumix DMC-LF1 under the same lighting none of my other digital cameras seem to like.  The LF1 auto white balance is quite good and fast.

I've not shot more than a few dozen pictures with the camera yet.  Mostly boring flower macros. Macro focus is 3cm to infinity with zoom on the control ring.

What I like about the camera is the 12.1 Mp 1/1.7 sensor, processor, the control ring, view finder, fast response, 2 strap anchors, Leica lens, many of the functions, Nice lens range, ISO range, and small size.  I wanted a pocket camera for my trip, but the camera had to be a functional as near to pro camera as I could afford.  The most impressive thing about this camera is it is available for about $250.00  from several reputable suppliers in NYC.  I got mine with a spare battery, charger, and Class 10 64MB Sandisk SD card for just over $250 which was about what I expected budget-wise.

What I do not like is the power switch and shutter release switch locations, no grip, no hot shoe. 

A tilting LCD screen like Sony uses would be nice, but I do not miss my old Sony much.  The lack of a grip will be corrected as soon as my Fipbak G4 arrives.

How does this compare to an Olympus Stylus 1?  The Stylus has a nicer traditional design, hot shoe, centered view finder, selectable video speed modes, constant F:2.8 for all focal lengths, and similar 12.1Mp sensor.  A much nicer compact camera for Mrs. M and her bird watching.

Note on the Montana being nicer to use than my Baby.  I used the Hermes Baby quite often and even on a few trips due to its weight (less than a Skyriter).  It is not all that great of a typer though.  First off every sheet catches the ribbon covers as it is started, touch is mediocre at best.  It has a more solid sound than the Montana, but still a cheap sound.

The Montana feeds paper smoother, has a better touch and sounds about the same as the Baby.  I had not been using it since it needed a ribbon.  Now with a new ribbon it even has a nicer typeface than the Baby.

Both typewriters need their platen recovered and the Montana has some minor flat spots on the paper feed pressure rollers.  I did not weigh them, but they seem to feel about the same weight; both lighter and a bit smaller than a Skyriter.  Neither type as good as a Smith-Corona Skyriter.

Hammond Multiplex Shuttles Typing Samples

10 C.P.I.

10 C.P.I.

170, 10 C.P.I.

10 C.P.I.

This may also be 170, 10 C.P.I.

10 C.P.I.

10 C.P.I.

170

10 C.P.I.

10 C.P.I.

10 C.P.I.

170

Shuttle positioner

shuttle positioner showing all the dirt I need to remove.

Shuttle holder in loading position. It sits on the two pins shown on the positioner.

Top view

Shuttles loaded

Shuttles in position

Everything is in its home positon and ready to type.  Shuttle to be used is at the top of the photo and the one that can be moved into position by lifiting up on the knob and turning the whole assembly 180 degrees is in the bottom of the photo.

Testing the shuttles turned out to be quite a challenge.  Most do not have numbers on them to verify the typeface.  All are 10 c.p.i. even though the characters differ in size.  Several of the shuttles did not get tested as they do not freely slide around the holder.  By hand I cannot feel any sticking, but the mechanism will jam when they are used. Several others are duplicate typefaces.

This took most of the day.  I tried to get the shuttles that would not slide easily to slide.  This was taking too long so they are tagged and repairs may happen later.
In doing the work I forgot to scale each sample with a one inch line and mark the name and number of the shuttle if I could cross reference it to my previous post.

Now if I can only complete the final challenge; finding the date of manufacture.  It may be 1915, 1916, or maybe even 1918.  The serial number and cast machined aluminum frame and the Typewriter Database places it in 1915 as a Multiplex portable with a different case.  This one is portable and has the square case like the folding model (not the neat curved case as the older models). On line I have not found a Hammond Multiplex verses a Hammond Multiplex portable.  They all look the same size.  I've a tremendous amout of learning to do with the history of these machines if I choose to dig into it.

This is a fun typewriter to use once I mastered the unique touch.  Not a hard touch, a unique one.  Not very fast though.  If I were to compare the speed of this one to a modern one I would say it is about as fast as my SM3, SM7 & SM9 Olympia typewriters.  However the touch may be more like my Remington Noiseless Model 7.

Now to get a purple ribbon for it.  I may never use the black one I ordered.

Maiden Typecast From A Hammond Multiplex

Repairs finished and test sheet.

Corrections with a carpenter's pencil I pointed since I typed this at my workbench.  I also did not correct all typos.  Hammond typed nearly to the very bottom of the sheet.

I mounted it back on the lid, but this is a photo I've used before.

I like using this typewriter, but I may not use it as often as I'd like.  The shuttles are hard rubber or Vulcanite (Thanks Richard) and I do not want to damage them.  Most need cleaning.  I'm unsure if I want to only brush them or use a mild cleaner.

One thing I noticed while typing is the shuttles must be extremely free.  The one with the larger typeface is the best so far.  It slides very freely.  I think the italic one will too once I treat it with Teflon Lube. 

The touch is quite unique on this machine.  I find I cannot hit the keys or I get the blurred letters. If I press too hard I get blurred letters.  I found a nice steady and intentional rhythm works best, like musical slow 6/8.  As stiff as the carriage return is on this I have a tendency to want to press hard as if to over come hard key touch.  The way the hammer works hard pressing is not required. 

The back space is quite easy and had its own uniqueness.  My biggest problem besides wanting to hit the keys is using the triple shift.  I found it easier to adapt to my Corona 3 than the Hammond.  Margin release key is completly smooth.  On all my other typewriters the end of line lock will lock the keys and pressing the M-R key causes a click and slight motion and sometimes a hard click and bump of the carriage.  Not so with this one. Press, releases the lock, and absolutely no motions or clicks.

The index for the placement of a letter on the page is nicer than looking at the typebar slot on newer machines too.  Hammond has a pointer at the spot for a letter or symbol.  There is also an index scale, but it is not as visible as on newer machines.

I hope to test all the shuttles soon.  If I do I hope there is room on the Typewriter Database for all of them.  They'll be posted here whether or not they fit on Ted's site.

One reason I gave up my Olivetti Praxis 48 was I found an IBM Selectric-II.  I always liked the interchangeable elements.  Until I started this hobby (obsession) I never knew of the Hammond -- it had interchangeable elements a Century before IBM!  (ok, I exaggerated a bit)

Now to search for additional shuttles.

Hammond Multiplex Left Side Keys Z-Only Problem Solved

 I was hoping the ribbon would be good enough to typecast from the Hammond, but it is too light.  I need to respool one onto the Hammond hubs.  I hope I can buy a long bulk ribbon from Baco.

From The Classic Typewriter Page:
Baco Ribbons makes ribbons in many sizes, colors, and materials. Contact Charlene Oesch, Baco Ribbon & Supply Co., 1521 Carman Road, Ballwin, MO 63021, 314-835-9300, fax 636-394-5475, e-mail bacoribbon@sbcglobal.net.

Impression strip on my Wal-Mart lazy susan.                                                                                                                           Gee from Type OH! The manual typewriter experience first showed one of these on his Hammond Multiplex.  I had bee too tight to buy one, but after several attempts at trying to find a bicycle rim liner I broke down and visited the Ebay seller and bought one.  Very well worth the price.

blogger does not display the caption on the blog like it appears in the editor!

This is the impression strip installed.

Not a very good image splice.   I hope you ' get the picture'

Z rod sticking in UP. The lever that rotates to move the shuttle stops at whichever key presses its rod up.

Notice the ferrule on the Z stays down.

Normal operation.  The spring goes up with the rod to provide return tension. Third one to the right is Z.  It will eventually drift into the up position even if the key is not pressed.  Looks like #4 is drifing up, but it is fine.

This looks like a 35mm printed with the negative installed with the emulsion side up in the negative carrier.  I did not notice it in GIMP.  I flipped the photo because I took the photo the only way I could get close with the camera.  That showed this upside-down. The image looks like the right side of the assembly.  It is really the left.  Z is the third rod from the left end of the assembly.

A better macro of the previous image.  Sorry for the reversal.

My chime clock after being replaced on the shelf in the living room with the Hammond, and after it was cleaned with Murphy's Oil Soap.

Type OH! The manual typewriter experience

raphaelcarl 
is the Ebay seller of the Hammond Impression Strip

 I hope the Ebayer does not mind a referral from my blog.

The clock is one of those projects where I should have done some before and after photos as it was quite dull and dirty looking before I decided to clean it and get it running for the first time since moving to Florida.  It sat on our book case as a decoration as I did not want to start the chimes.  This is a reproduction of a real chime clock. It does not have a silence key to silence the chimes.  Once the chime spring winds down it will not chime.  I've not decided to keep it or offer it to a Typospherian who likes clocks.