Sunday, May 19, 2019

Bicycle typing & Pool Noodles

The link is to a bicycle article I just read a few minutes ago.

It is quite interesting as I am always on the look out for ways to be more visible and safe while biking on country roads as well as city and town streets.

I like to strap a Skyriter on my bike or carry one in my panniers and take a ride to a local park or trail for some quiet outdoors typing.

I've lived in many places with narrow roads and very hilly terrain.  In this area of Michigan we have hills, hills, and more hills, and blind spots everywhere.  The country roads generally do not have a shoulder. (neither did they in Pennsylvania or Virginal of Florida) A bright lime green pool noodle seems a good addition to my lime green vest and flashing red high intensity LED tail light.

Bicycle Pool Noodle

Happy & safe bicycle riding and typing.

Saturday, April 20, 2019

Hermes 3000 Replacement Platen Knobs

Large Black, Grey, Small Black

This is looking at the shaft side. Original H3k knob is on the left.

Here is an idea of what needs done to fit either of the black knobs compared to the grey one.

The O.D. of the knurling on the collar varies, but not enough to prevent using the grey knob.

The width of the knurling is just about perfect for fitting to the grey knob.

Checking the maximum depth without milling off the nib inside the knob.

Close enough for 0.200 inches (0.186" as measured)

Original knobs for the square H3k (green or white, 30mm)are just under 1.250 inches.

This black bakelite knob (at nearlty1.25") may just be a perfect fit. I will need to machine the shaft side and add a set screw to make it work.

The grey knob is a bit under size of the original knobs, but looks good, and needs no machining.

The small black knob is just over an inch.  This one only requires putting it in a V-Block, drilling, and tapping it for a set screw (5-40 x .125" or 6-32 x .125").  No problem with a drill press or a Dremel drill press.

I tested the fit on an H3k I'm working on to sell.

Looks good, at least to me.

This is what I like about the black knob. It is a metric knob and fits the shaft perfectly.

There is one problem.  A set screw is needed to hold it fast to the shaft, and it will not be the easiest to tighten due to the side place.  The plate can be loosened, but I think tightening the set screw will still be problematic.

I does look good too. Even with its small looking size the platen was quite easy to turn. I temporarily mounted it with hot melt glue on this end while letting the other end of the shaft free so I could pull out the shaft and heat it to soften the glue and remove the knob.

Here is the grey one mounted to my 1971 H3k Petit Pica Typewriter.

Comparison of a round body knob to the grey one.

Round body collars are a bit different than the ones used on the square body.
My go-to hardware supplier.  Being close to the Chicago warehouse I get next day delivery on 99% of my orders (normal shipping cost).  In fact I do not think it took more than 1 or 2 days to get an order anyplace I lived.
This was a way over due project as I have been replacing square body H3k platen knobs quite regularly for myself and others who get the square body Hermes 3000.  I even tried to create my own using InstaMorph, but I was not satisfied with the results. For more on using InstaMorph check out Magic Margin

Sunday, December 30, 2018

Royal KMG

Typed on the KMG

This is the KMG when I started to clean it.

Looks like and accumulation of decades of dirt under the platen.

After the repairs and a few hours of cleaning (thanks Scrubbing Bubbles).
This project took longer than expected.  The week after I picked it up we got 2 good snowfalls after each other.  My spare time went to snow removal.

Then the weather got cold and the garage temperature went into the 30s before I had any heater ready for winter.  With a medium sized heater I can heat the work area to about 55 - 60F.  My big propane heater will get the entire garage into the 60 even when the garage temperature drops below 40F.  Generally though the garage stays in the 40s (without heat) until the weather gets really cold.

Last week I finally got to dig out a heater, and the garage warmed into the high 40s.  I decided I better finish this as someone is waiting for it and the Noiseless No. 6 to be returned.

Now that I got to use one of these I need to add one to my collection.  This is a really nice typer.

Now I hope to get time over the next day or two to get to work on the No. 6.  I finally got the ribbon spool covers off of it about a week ago.  The spool covers were stuck on with so much corrosion I did not know to pull or screw them off.
I knew the ones on my other Remington Noiseless typewriters only pulled off.  Eventually with enough Kroil I was able to wedge the covers off the moldy corroded ribbon and corroded spindles.  Other than this issue the typewriter is in nice condition except missing the top cover over the type bars.

 In closing, A Very Happy New Year to everyone!

May 2019 bring many typewriters into your collections.

Saturday, November 24, 2018

Aligning a Montgomery Ward (Brother) Signature 511

Not exactly the view in the thrift shop. this is the case sitting on my spare oscilloscope cart.

Keys included.  This is supposed to mean if I sell it on Ebay I can charge more because there are keys!

This is not the sample from the thrift shop.  I used the back of an ATM receipt that has since been run through my document shredder.

511 not D.  I thought the D had changeable type slugs.  This is not a D, but look at the red key in the upper row, right.

The 2 screws with lock nuts in the middle of the image and middle of basket are the alignment screws.  The upper screw is for the upper case and the lower screw for the lower case.

Here is a better view of the lower case screw. Gunk or is this locking material from Brother?  It was only on the lower nut and screws. It is very much like the conformal coating on U. S. Army  circuit boards and other items to weather proof it.  Same hardness too. I had to dig it off with a hefty (not X-Acto) razor knife.

Only tools required is a 6mm ignition wrench and small screwdriver.
The alignment screw for its associated case is unlocked and turned in small increments CW or CCW to align the bottom serif with the card guide line.  For Sanserif letters the bottom of the letter is aligned with the card guide mark.

Besides aligning the characters with the card guide line I like to use the fractions if the typewriter has them. 

An alternate way is to use the comma and period and the serifs at the bottoms of letters.

These 2 show how clean the type slugs on this machine are as found.  I did not need to clean  them.  Generally the e, a, o, p, g, d, m, and b need a good cleaning from having parts of tehm filled with caked in hard ink and dirt.

The red + = key indicates this typewriter has an interchangeable type slug.

...and here is the interchangeable slug.  SCM uses 2 on some of their typewriters.  I've only ever seen one on a Brother other than the rotating one.

One of teh few portables that is fully full-featured.  This typewriter even has a paper injector.

With a little help from Grey Goose.

This turned out to be my second Brother typewriter.  My Montgomery-Ward Accord 10 is the other.

This turned out to be a nice typing typewriter.  The touch is a bit firmer than some of my others, and 2 things I find that I do not like about this typewriter is that it is easy for me to run 2 characters together as seen in my typing.  The other being the paper injector only has one stop, at maximum.  I've gotten used to the one on my Hermes Ambassador that can be set any place up to 12 lines.  the Brother will take a bit of practice.

All of the imagery in this typecast is from my LG G5 in HDR mode.  None of the images have been edited.  I have been playing with using my cell phone during some of my typewriter adventures ever since I did the Lettera 32 post (also from the phone, but edited in GIMP) .  The phone is handy, and the images seem quite acceptable for blogging without the need to use one of my Olympus imagers at the work bench.